Ken Sims Mountaineer Resume

Contractual Climbing Guide

Antarctica
Seven Austral summer seasons from 1988-1997
Mountain guide for science parties funded by the National Science Foundation  in the Transantarctic Mountains and on Mt. Erebus, Ross Island. During the 1992-93 season, I guided for NASA and was in charge of all technical aspects for the NASA Erebus Robotics Development Study.

Peru, Cordillera Blanca
June, 1981; June 1982. Private climbing guide/instructor. Successfully guided the peaks Nevada Maparaju (5326 meters), Nevado Urus (5495 meters), Nevado Copa (6188 meters) and Nevado Tocllaraju (6032 meters).

August, 1999. Guided a Colorado College Ritt Fund trip through the Alaska Mountaineering School. This trip involved arranging all logistics and leading a group of a eight Colorado College students on a two-week traverse of part of the Cordillera Blanca including climbing two peaks: Nevado Ishinca (5530 meters) and Nevado Urus (5495 meters).

Alaska, Alaska Range
Denali/Mt. McKinley (20,320 feet)
May, 1984. Successfully guided several Associates of the Santa Fe Mountain Center to the summit of Mt. McKinley (20,320 feet) via the West Buttress.

May, 1989. Guided research doctor, Dr. Ben Levine, to Dr. Peter Hackett's Denali Medical Research Camp situated at 14,500 feet on the West Buttress Route of Mt. McKinley.

Mexico, Volcanoes
December, 1983. Private climbing guide. Successfully guided a private client to the summit of volcano Iztaccihutal (5286 meters), Popocatepetal (5452 meters), and Orizoba (5700 meters).

Climbing Guide/Instructor and Wilderness Guide

Rock and Ice Climbing Guide and Instructor, 1978-1980
Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing School, North Conway, NH
Seasonal climbing guide and instructor for beginning to advanced rock and ice climbing students. Also carried the responsibility of technical search and rescues in the Mt. Washington Valley.

Wilderness Instructor, 1984-1986
Colorado Outward Bound School, Colorado Springs Project Center, Colorado Springs, CO
Instructed Leadership Training Programs for Colorado College students interested in becoming leaders for the Colorado College Outdoor Recreation Program. Taught outdoor skills and encouraged a responsible, creative approach to leadership.

Project Director and Wilderness Instructor, 1980-1985
Santa Fe Mountain Center, Santa Fe, NM
Worked primarily with adult and juvenile criminal offenders. Task areas included referral agency contact, client screening and counseling, development of course goals, itinerary planning, supervision of course staff, diagnostic client evaluation, parole board input, wilderness program implementation, and follow-up contact. Also organized and implemented wilderness programming for other special and non-special populations including physically handicapped adults, emotionally and physically disturbed children.

Climbing Guide/Instructor, 1976-1978
Vertical World Climbing School and Guide Service, Colorado Springs, CO
Seasonal climbing guide and instructor for beginning to advanced rock and ice climbing students.

Product Testing and Design
Patagonia, Inc.
Product testing and technical design (1994-present).

High Altitude Alpine Climbing

Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Nevado Huascaran Sur (6768 meters). The West Face via The Shield (Solo).
Nevado Chacraraju (6112 meters). South Face via American Direct.  
Nevado Artesonraju (6025 meters). Southwest Face (Solo).
Nevado Tocllaraju (6032 meters).
Nevado Chopicalqi  (6354 meters).
Nevado Copa (6188 meters)
Nevada Wamashraju (5434 meters), West Face via Sims-Hanning Route (V,5.10) First Ascent

Alaska, Alaska Range
Mt. McKinley (20,320 feet). West Buttress.

I have also climbed throughout the Canadian Rockies, Tetons, North Cascades, Sierra Nevada and Colorado Rockies.

Ice Climbing

Scotland
Ben Nevis (4,406 feet). North Face.
   Orion Face Direct Grade VI, Point Five Gully Grade V (Solo), Zero Gully Grade V (Solo).
Craig Megaiduh (3,658 feet). North Face.
   North Post Gully Grade V (Solo).

Colorado
Bridalveil Falls Grade VI, Ames Falls Grade VI, Skylight Grade V, The Squid Grade VI.

Utah
Stairway to Heaven Grade V, Great White Icicle Grade IV.
    
Northeastern United States
The Promenade Grade VI, Repentance Grade VI, The Black Dike Grade IV.

Rock Climbing

Yosemite Valley, California
El Capitan: Pacific Ocean Wall VI 5.10 A5; Salathe Wall VI 5.11 A3; Zodiac, VI, 5.10, A4.
Half Dome North West Face VI 5.11 A1 (one-day ascent/6 hours, nearly all free, without jumars).
The Rostrum IV 5.11
Washington Column, Astroman IV 5.11

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado
North Chasm View Wall Air Voyage V 5.12 (First Free Ascent), Scenic Cruise V 5.10.
South Chasm View Wall Mirror Wall IV 5.11, Black Jack III 5.10.
Painted Wall Southern Arete V 5.10, Mordor Wall VI 5.10 A4.

Longs Peak (14,110 feet), Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
The Diamond: Grand Traverse: Yellow Wall finish V 5.9 A3 (Winter Conditions); Casual Route VI, 5.9.
    
Canyon Country
The Witch, Hell Roaring Fork Canyon, Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route, III 5.11+ R (First Free Ascent)
Charlie Horse Needle, Canyonlands, Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route, II 5.11 or 5.12a (First Free Ascent)
Argon Tower, Arches National Park, III 5.11, West Face (First Free Ascent)
Cochina Spire, Zuni Reservation, III 5.11+ A0, West Face (First Ascent of Tower)

I have also rock climbed extensively throughout the US: New England, Colorado, New Mexico, California, Wyoming; and several other countries: France, England, Australia, New Zealand, and Oman.